Emilib pohl



p UNITED STATES PATENT ()FFICEQ' EMILIE POI-IL, on BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

STIFFENER FO'R BUSTLES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N0. 325,861, dated September 8, 1885.

Application filed April 14, 1885. (No model.)

1" all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, EMILIE POHL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Baltimore, in the State of Maryland, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Bustles, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to that class of stiff- -eners or springs used in bustles or similar articles of personal wear for giving a graceful ordesirable form to the exterior garments which consists of a fabric pocket or tube inclosing the stiffener or spring, and my invention consists in a novel construction of such pocket or tube,and in stuffing or filling the same with granulated cork, whereby a cheap and an improved article is provided.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is a top view of the stiffener. Fig. 2 is an outside or bias side view of the stiffener. Fig. 3 is a cross-section of the same. Fig. 4 is a cross-section showing two stiffeners connected. Fig. 5 is a view of the strip cut straight with the' threads of the fabric which forms the inner .side of the pocket or tube. Fig. 6 is a View of the strip of fabric out bias which forms the outside ofthe pocket ortube. Fig. 7 is a vertical section, side View, of a bustle provided with the improved stiffeners. Fig. 8 is a front View of the same.

The letter a designates one side of the stiffener pocket or tube made from a strip of fabric (see Fig. 5) of any suitable kind or ma terial, cut straight with respect to one portion of the threads. The other side, b, of the stiffenertube is made froma strip of fabric (see Fig. (5) cut bias or diagonally with re spect to both threads. The bias-cut strip is the widest, and constitutes the outside of the pocket or tube. The two sides a b are united by the rows 0 of stitches, and thereby form the pocket or tube having the two flanges d, one on a side opposite the other. The pocket or tube thus constructed is filled or stuffed with ground or granulated cork e, which is light but compact, clean, free of odor, and cheap, and when the ends f of the tube are properly closed the cork gives to the tube the requisite stiffness. At the same time the tube is pliable on account of the elasticity of the cork; but,while pliable, the tube will not bend short, kink, or buckle. As one side ial.

of the tube is made of fabric cut bias, said side will stretch, thereby enabling the tube to be bowed or curved, as is necessary in bustles and similar articles, and when bowed the bias side forms the outside of the curve.

Broadly considered, my invention comprehends a stiffener for bustles consisting of a fabric tube the threads of which are diagonal with respect to the length of the tube and stuffed with compact but pliable mate- A tube made wholly of a strip of thin fabric cut bias would stretch, and when stuffed would bulge in places unequally. Therefore one side of the tube is made of ma-v terial that is inelastic when drawn lengthwise, such as fabric cut straight with respect to either the warp or weft threads, and thereby the above-named difficulties are obviated.

The stiffener as a finished article has two flanges, d, which serve for its attachment by sewing to the parts of a bust-1e or other article of personal wear. v

These stiffe'ners may be attached to abustle or pannier singly or in pairs-that is, two to gether, as shown; or three or more may be arranged together. Figs. 7 and 8 show the application of the stiffener to a bustle. One or more tapes, extend from the waistband h down, and stiffeners are made fast to the tapes.

By using an elastic lace or cord, 17, as usual, when pressure is brought against the bowed stiffeners they will yield and straighten out.

Having described my invention, I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States- 1.. A stiffener or spring for bustles, panniers, or like articles of personal wear, consisting of a pocket or tube having one side composed of fabric the threads of which are diagonal with respect to the length of the tube,and thereby is elastic when drawn lengthwise, aud the other side composed of material that is inelastic when drawn lengthwise, 5

and a stuffing of compact but pliable material, as set forth.

2. Astiffener or spring for bustles, panniers, or like articles of personal wear, con-=-- sisting of a fabric pocket or tube the material of one side of which is cut straight with respect to one portion of the threads, and the material of the other side out bias, and :tsnittube, and 2t stuffing of granulated cork, as set able stuffing material filling the said pocket forth. :0 or tube, as set forth. In testimony whereof I affix my signature 3. A stiffener or spring for bustles, panin presence of two witnesses. niers, or like articles of personal wear, con- EMILIE POHL. sisting of a fabric pocket or tube havingone WVitnesses: side composed of fabric the threads of which J OHN E. MORRIS,

are diagonal with respect to the length of the Jim. T. MADDOX. 

